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class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-7648655428812078744?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-16938557468288477962008-10-24T11:32:00.000-07:002008-10-24T11:33:37.505-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SQIU-heduPI/AAAAAAAABLc/2jpcOREE26g/s1600-h/IMG_2588.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SQIU-heduPI/AAAAAAAABLc/2jpcOREE26g/s320/IMG_2588.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260790379092752626" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-1693855746828847796?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-32250127171906770072008-10-18T06:44:00.000-07:002008-10-18T06:53:11.180-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnqGi2c8iI/AAAAAAAABK0/w9rFiW2EjNg/s1600-h/IMG_5091.JPG"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnqGi2c8iI/AAAAAAAABK0/w9rFiW2EjNg/s320/IMG_5091.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258491438087074338" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnp58TLPRI/AAAAAAAABKs/9jIBUxi0BFo/s1600-h/IMG_5078.JPG"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnp58TLPRI/AAAAAAAABKs/9jIBUxi0BFo/s320/IMG_5078.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258491221580135698" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPno5bzzO7I/AAAAAAAABJk/f9k9kQCTWZs/s320/IMG_5117.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258490113346976690" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-3225012717190677007?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-27588575666583128942008-10-18T06:24:00.000-07:002008-10-18T06:29:09.458-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnkh0AUAXI/AAAAAAAABHk/QQYDRwF806I/s1600-h/IMG_5136.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnkh0AUAXI/AAAAAAAABHk/QQYDRwF806I/s320/IMG_5136.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258485309478535538" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258484431308741682" />MILESTII MICI</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-2758857566658312894?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-54865705674882195052008-10-18T06:17:00.000-07:002008-10-18T06:24:46.713-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnitiGHDoI/AAAAAAAABGs/A3GwZuktF9k/s1600-h/IMG_5230.JPG">Igor Smirnof ,,Sheriff'' Emperor of Nadniestrze<br /><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnitiGHDoI/AAAAAAAABGs/A3GwZuktF9k/s320/IMG_5230.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258483311806189186" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnikfMQ8eI/AAAAAAAABGk/gz4bHci110Q/s1600-h/IMG_5217.JPG"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnikfMQ8eI/AAAAAAAABGk/gz4bHci110Q/s320/IMG_5217.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258483156407874018" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPniViW9p1I/AAAAAAAABGc/U-fzYcC2L7I/s1600-h/IMG_5212.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPniViW9p1I/AAAAAAAABGc/U-fzYcC2L7I/s320/IMG_5212.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258482899560015698" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPniPNfMoEI/AAAAAAAABGU/rA-5BosJqss/s1600-h/IMG_5227.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPniPNfMoEI/AAAAAAAABGU/rA-5BosJqss/s320/IMG_5227.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258482790878191682" /></a><br /><a onblur="try 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/></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-26370991657590275552008-10-18T06:14:00.000-07:002008-10-18T06:16:36.406-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhng0wLyI/AAAAAAAABF8/6FIufIuRJmM/s1600-h/IMG_5247.JPG"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhng0wLyI/AAAAAAAABF8/6FIufIuRJmM/s320/IMG_5247.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258482108874108706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhhgh4X2I/AAAAAAAABF0/ArARcqmSiMo/s1600-h/IMG_5258.JPG"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhhgh4X2I/AAAAAAAABF0/ArARcqmSiMo/s320/IMG_5258.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258482005715738466" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhZpBTSsI/AAAAAAAABFs/lPDntyQkPTU/s1600-h/IMG_5251.JPG"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhZpBTSsI/AAAAAAAABFs/lPDntyQkPTU/s320/IMG_5251.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258481870556056258" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-2637099165759027555?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-21418522232345775122008-10-18T06:08:00.002-07:002008-10-18T06:14:51.795-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhPF0LJ_I/AAAAAAAABFk/qDFvXg7apmA/s1600-h/IMG_5288.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhPF0LJ_I/AAAAAAAABFk/qDFvXg7apmA/s320/IMG_5288.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258481689307064306" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhJ452ivI/AAAAAAAABFc/5dCbXRBLtvs/s1600-h/IMG_5286.JPG"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhJ452ivI/AAAAAAAABFc/5dCbXRBLtvs/s320/IMG_5286.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258481599941872370" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhDVPaf4I/AAAAAAAABFU/qNJLM2ZoWuo/s1600-h/IMG_5292.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPnhDVPaf4I/AAAAAAAABFU/qNJLM2ZoWuo/s320/IMG_5292.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258481487289417602" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SPng9lrf7GI/AAAAAAAABFM/kEOVPIXVLdM/s1600-h/IMG_5295.JPG"><img 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href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMvRDA3o0AI/AAAAAAAAA1M/qp_7gutInOQ/s1600-h/IMG_3721.JPG"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMvRDA3o0AI/AAAAAAAAA1M/qp_7gutInOQ/s320/IMG_3721.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5245516040706248706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMvQ8tsHsHI/AAAAAAAAA1E/mzHwtPCKnIM/s1600-h/IMG_3709.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMvQ8tsHsHI/AAAAAAAAA1E/mzHwtPCKnIM/s320/IMG_3709.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5245515932478451826" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-7926072036316985112?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-88240327230559990782008-09-11T10:13:00.000-07:002008-09-11T10:22:17.410-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTZM_58dI/AAAAAAAAA08/g-FVhiekoTM/s1600-h/IMG_3701.JPG"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTZM_58dI/AAAAAAAAA08/g-FVhiekoTM/s320/IMG_3701.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814933500752338" />BELGRAD</a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTRv-KPLI/AAAAAAAAA00/_JiDEfE_g9c/s1600-h/IMG_3573.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTRv-KPLI/AAAAAAAAA00/_JiDEfE_g9c/s320/IMG_3573.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814805449718962" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTJ5XBp9I/AAAAAAAAA0s/KKSoUrVrwpM/s1600-h/IMG_3561.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTJ5XBp9I/AAAAAAAAA0s/KKSoUrVrwpM/s320/IMG_3561.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814670530979794" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTDxHgB6I/AAAAAAAAA0k/UWtxy2RR8CI/s1600-h/IMG_3554.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlTDxHgB6I/AAAAAAAAA0k/UWtxy2RR8CI/s320/IMG_3554.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814565239162786" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlS-aROvqI/AAAAAAAAA0c/feuMaP_Egyw/s1600-h/IMG_3548.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlS-aROvqI/AAAAAAAAA0c/feuMaP_Egyw/s320/IMG_3548.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814473206611618" /></a><br /><a onblur="try 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id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814175623062178" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSmn8Gm9I/AAAAAAAAAz8/JdxvdD-vKsc/s1600-h/IMG_3519.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSmn8Gm9I/AAAAAAAAAz8/JdxvdD-vKsc/s320/IMG_3519.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244814064559234002" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSgZSOPpI/AAAAAAAAAz0/Qi8W9ucprng/s1600-h/IMG_3500.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSgZSOPpI/AAAAAAAAAz0/Qi8W9ucprng/s320/IMG_3500.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244813957546262162" />NOVY SAD</a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSaprGNWI/AAAAAAAAAzs/kpr3knoaUF8/s1600-h/IMG_3475.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSaprGNWI/AAAAAAAAAzs/kpr3knoaUF8/s320/IMG_3475.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244813858866345314" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSTKSMkkI/AAAAAAAAAzk/OOQgl1qcRHQ/s1600-h/IMG_3457.JPG"><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSTKSMkkI/AAAAAAAAAzk/OOQgl1qcRHQ/s320/IMG_3457.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244813730181321282" />SUBOTICA</a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSNAQZ0II/AAAAAAAAAzc/rxMc1vNYLLA/s1600-h/IMG_3441.JPG"><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSNAQZ0II/AAAAAAAAAzc/rxMc1vNYLLA/s320/IMG_3441.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244813624410230914" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSHg2NvpI/AAAAAAAAAzU/gCP3uK9qkM4/s1600-h/IMG_3428.JPG"><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlSHg2NvpI/AAAAAAAAAzU/gCP3uK9qkM4/s320/IMG_3428.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244813530079542930" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-8824032723055999078?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-11806950910154146862008-09-11T09:55:00.000-07:002008-09-12T02:53:46.003-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlOQ6PTYjI/AAAAAAAAAw0/vhGZeRQZBf0/s1600-h/IMG_3408.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244809293467968050" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlOQ6PTYjI/AAAAAAAAAw0/vhGZeRQZBf0/s320/IMG_3408.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlOISzbjUI/AAAAAAAAAws/L45zBvXcjEQ/s1600-h/IMG_3407.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlN_XVbqWI/AAAAAAAAAwk/hu4cbL4nZSI/s1600-h/IMG_3407.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244808992040659298" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlN_XVbqWI/AAAAAAAAAwk/hu4cbL4nZSI/s320/IMG_3407.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlN30GgifI/AAAAAAAAAwc/m2QuJnIoAcs/s1600-h/IMG_3406.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244808862323739122" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlN30GgifI/AAAAAAAAAwc/m2QuJnIoAcs/s320/IMG_3406.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlNuVUWotI/AAAAAAAAAwU/ua-ox8Botms/s1600-h/IMG_3401.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244808699441488594" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlNuVUWotI/AAAAAAAAAwU/ua-ox8Botms/s320/IMG_3401.JPG" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-1180695091015414686?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-68525328043450072752008-09-11T09:53:00.001-07:002008-09-11T09:54:18.113-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlNJ83TzbI/AAAAAAAAAwM/DlhOrygtMwU/s1600-h/IMG_3399.JPG"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SMlNJ83TzbI/AAAAAAAAAwM/DlhOrygtMwU/s320/IMG_3399.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244808074401926578" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-6852532804345007275?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-4272474591836045132008-06-23T04:27:00.002-07:002008-06-23T04:42:05.111-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-MAZqotVI/AAAAAAAAAwE/Pl75YdmeT0A/s1600-h/IMG_0702.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-MAZqotVI/AAAAAAAAAwE/Pl75YdmeT0A/s320/IMG_0702.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215040832035927378" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" 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src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-LUDvZ3NI/AAAAAAAAAvc/6ZM4L-yeSqA/s320/IMG_0673.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215040070236101842" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-LNisALnI/AAAAAAAAAvU/4wJsVice1GI/s1600-h/IMG_0624.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-LNisALnI/AAAAAAAAAvU/4wJsVice1GI/s320/IMG_0624.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215039958284250738" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-LHZLGmGI/AAAAAAAAAvM/R4zwl3fbbJU/s1600-h/IMG_0593.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-LHZLGmGI/AAAAAAAAAvM/R4zwl3fbbJU/s320/IMG_0593.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215039852651124834" border="0" /></a><br /><a 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href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-KIDFafQI/AAAAAAAAAuE/iI-6o50RiiU/s1600-h/IMG_0503.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-KIDFafQI/AAAAAAAAAuE/iI-6o50RiiU/s320/IMG_0503.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215038764389924098" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-KCClnRnI/AAAAAAAAAt8/erP7g0Y_FG8/s1600-h/IMG_0501.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-KCClnRnI/AAAAAAAAAt8/erP7g0Y_FG8/s320/IMG_0501.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215038661177329266" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-J3fXOqFI/AAAAAAAAAt0/BiVAZYzR7Jc/s1600-h/IMG_0470.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-J3fXOqFI/AAAAAAAAAt0/BiVAZYzR7Jc/s320/IMG_0470.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215038479923062866" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-JyRDJWBI/AAAAAAAAAts/5EEUIaMRHIg/s1600-h/IMG_0481.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SF-JyRDJWBI/AAAAAAAAAts/5EEUIaMRHIg/s320/IMG_0481.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5215038390181386258" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-427247459183604513?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-11098296368560152372008-06-23T04:27:00.001-07:002008-06-23T04:27:47.923-07:00<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-1109829636856015237?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-35663134374562048652008-06-11T15:11:00.000-07:002008-06-11T15:33:34.492-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBSs3_ytkI/AAAAAAAAAtU/_HyPEOwi2bc/s1600-h/IMG_9945.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBSs3_ytkI/AAAAAAAAAtU/_HyPEOwi2bc/s320/IMG_9945.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210755699766900290" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBSlsa9LHI/AAAAAAAAAtM/CD7gw9JLXCs/s1600-h/IMG_9927.jpg"><img 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href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBSCCGC-_I/AAAAAAAAAsk/99r2sDTT4_I/s1600-h/IMG_9911.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBSCCGC-_I/AAAAAAAAAsk/99r2sDTT4_I/s320/IMG_9911.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754963743112178" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBR8BQ-QfI/AAAAAAAAAsc/GoYTJEvMP7E/s1600-h/IMG_9910.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBR8BQ-QfI/AAAAAAAAAsc/GoYTJEvMP7E/s320/IMG_9910.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754860441289202" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBR0EgxUxI/AAAAAAAAAsU/SLRgUQvZPw0/s1600-h/IMG_9907.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBR0EgxUxI/AAAAAAAAAsU/SLRgUQvZPw0/s320/IMG_9907.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754723873903378" border="0" /></a>POLICA<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRsic-oAI/AAAAAAAAAsM/pRjP7LLocRY/s1600-h/IMG_9902.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRsic-oAI/AAAAAAAAAsM/pRjP7LLocRY/s320/IMG_9902.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754594472108034" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRiSgqPLI/AAAAAAAAAsE/vu_YJKqI3js/s1600-h/IMG_9895.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRiSgqPLI/AAAAAAAAAsE/vu_YJKqI3js/s320/IMG_9895.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754418393889970" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRbdpZXNI/AAAAAAAAAr8/RX_gnPLNeko/s1600-h/IMG_9894.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRbdpZXNI/AAAAAAAAAr8/RX_gnPLNeko/s320/IMG_9894.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754301124238546" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRVPN03JI/AAAAAAAAAr0/w5pCid6VNgg/s1600-h/IMG_9889.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRVPN03JI/AAAAAAAAAr0/w5pCid6VNgg/s320/IMG_9889.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754194171288722" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRPR6UiRI/AAAAAAAAArs/UlrLQgr3lZ0/s1600-h/IMG_9885.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRPR6UiRI/AAAAAAAAArs/UlrLQgr3lZ0/s320/IMG_9885.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210754091815569682" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRG63BLuI/AAAAAAAAArk/LDqlst9gZtE/s1600-h/IMG_9881.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBRG63BLuI/AAAAAAAAArk/LDqlst9gZtE/s320/IMG_9881.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210753948188749538" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBQ-BQr-UI/AAAAAAAAArc/7imvB3Bdpt8/s1600-h/IMG_9870.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" 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src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBOGYW2DxI/AAAAAAAAAp8/MDwL-s1ICNY/s320/IMG_9797.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210750640392113938" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBOBUuxW7I/AAAAAAAAAp0/9WZdLqF9jUo/s1600-h/IMG_9787.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBOBUuxW7I/AAAAAAAAAp0/9WZdLqF9jUo/s320/IMG_9787.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210750553519381426" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBN6uynuhI/AAAAAAAAAps/QpEo6a25YuI/s1600-h/IMG_9783.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBN6uynuhI/AAAAAAAAAps/QpEo6a25YuI/s320/IMG_9783.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210750440255765010" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBN1ccj8CI/AAAAAAAAApk/VkuJk63smO8/s1600-h/IMG_9772.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBN1ccj8CI/AAAAAAAAApk/VkuJk63smO8/s320/IMG_9772.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210750349432057890" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBNv9QzAOI/AAAAAAAAApc/gNMT_Di6s5I/s1600-h/IMG_9764.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFBNv9QzAOI/AAAAAAAAApc/gNMT_Di6s5I/s320/IMG_9764.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210750255161868514" border="0" /></a><br />GORCE<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-3566313437456204865?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-26029340693258512642008-06-11T10:46:00.001-07:002008-06-11T10:48:44.048-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFAP6PFiE6I/AAAAAAAAApU/iqbFhVVeHVk/s1600-h/IMG_7935.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFAP6PFiE6I/AAAAAAAAApU/iqbFhVVeHVk/s320/IMG_7935.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210682262024229794" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/SFAP1a9_OfI/AAAAAAAAApM/shq8im6qeYU/s1600-h/IMG_7945.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: 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id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155852769330051010" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R41Erd4ht7I/AAAAAAAAAew/HCQDw8C3rpU/s1600-h/IMG_0858.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R41Erd4ht7I/AAAAAAAAAew/HCQDw8C3rpU/s320/IMG_0858.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155852661955868594" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R41Ej94ht6I/AAAAAAAAAeo/LNzP9EvgeX0/s1600-h/IMG_0852.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R41Ej94ht6I/AAAAAAAAAeo/LNzP9EvgeX0/s320/IMG_0852.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155852533106849698" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' 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float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v6Id4ht4I/AAAAAAAAAeY/1hgl0yK_2ZY/s320/IMG_0404.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155489221823281026" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v5_t4ht3I/AAAAAAAAAeQ/0po6JhKQTMI/s1600-h/IMG_0405.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v5_t4ht3I/AAAAAAAAAeQ/0po6JhKQTMI/s320/IMG_0405.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155489071499425650" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v52d4ht2I/AAAAAAAAAeI/MhPDVfyMh1w/s1600-h/IMG_0412.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v52d4ht2I/AAAAAAAAAeI/MhPDVfyMh1w/s320/IMG_0412.jpg" alt="" 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href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v5at4htzI/AAAAAAAAAdw/GjS1rkuTgS4/s1600-h/IMG_0434.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v5at4htzI/AAAAAAAAAdw/GjS1rkuTgS4/s320/IMG_0434.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155488435844265778" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v4794htwI/AAAAAAAAAdY/MyX0s5XYR3g/s1600-h/IMG_0526.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v4794htwI/AAAAAAAAAdY/MyX0s5XYR3g/s320/IMG_0526.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155487907563288322" border="0" /></a>ZIMNY DÓŁ<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v4td4htvI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/0_Z0j1fsB2s/s1600-h/IMG_0575.jpg"><img 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href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v38t4htqI/AAAAAAAAAco/tlvDVmw7kLw/s1600-h/IMG_0592.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v38t4htqI/AAAAAAAAAco/tlvDVmw7kLw/s320/IMG_0592.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155486820936562338" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3yt4htpI/AAAAAAAAAcg/zeDpoX4WuzE/s1600-h/IMG_0617.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3yt4htpI/AAAAAAAAAcg/zeDpoX4WuzE/s320/IMG_0617.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155486649137870482" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3m94htoI/AAAAAAAAAcY/6VxMFUJIs5c/s1600-h/IMG_0620.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3m94htoI/AAAAAAAAAcY/6VxMFUJIs5c/s320/IMG_0620.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155486447274407554" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3V94htnI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/FZrEofqR35Y/s1600-h/IMG_1866.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3V94htnI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/FZrEofqR35Y/s320/IMG_1866.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155486155216631410" border="0" /></a>KAJASÓWKA<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3Pt4htmI/AAAAAAAAAcI/1j4or5iy5BI/s1600-h/IMG_1901.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3Pt4htmI/AAAAAAAAAcI/1j4or5iy5BI/s320/IMG_1901.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155486047842448994" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3Gd4htlI/AAAAAAAAAcA/Nn84BRB05yM/s1600-h/IMG_1910.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4v3Gd4htlI/AAAAAAAAAcA/Nn84BRB05yM/s320/IMG_1910.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155485888928659026" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-3084765214097573738?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-39132019819071456412008-01-13T11:24:00.000-08:002008-01-13T11:26:32.355-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4pl494htkI/AAAAAAAAAbg/2ip0joQloFw/s1600-h/IMG_2734.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4pl494htkI/AAAAAAAAAbg/2ip0joQloFw/s320/IMG_2734.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155044752837686850" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4plzt4htjI/AAAAAAAAAbY/a95fQiZj7XE/s1600-h/IMG_2726.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4plzt4htjI/AAAAAAAAAbY/a95fQiZj7XE/s320/IMG_2726.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155044662643373618" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4pls94htiI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/h2p62ImBKXY/s1600-h/IMG_2730.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4pls94htiI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/h2p62ImBKXY/s320/IMG_2730.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155044546679256610" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4plnN4hthI/AAAAAAAAAbI/vGRGgMnj4fA/s1600-h/IMG_2615.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4plnN4hthI/AAAAAAAAAbI/vGRGgMnj4fA/s320/IMG_2615.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155044447895008786" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-3913201981907145641?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-51864598369670845022008-01-10T07:57:00.000-08:002008-01-10T08:00:43.028-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4ZBEN4htdI/AAAAAAAAAZo/LzY9yirb3hY/s1600-h/IMG_2503.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4ZBEN4htdI/AAAAAAAAAZo/LzY9yirb3hY/s320/IMG_2503.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153878364274144722" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-5186459836967084502?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-27855768630596114162008-01-09T15:34:00.001-08:002008-01-09T15:38:01.574-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4VaXd4htcI/AAAAAAAAAZg/wwBmFdSVzjw/s1600-h/IMG_2458.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4VaXd4htcI/AAAAAAAAAZg/wwBmFdSVzjw/s320/IMG_2458.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153624707800610242" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4VaQt4htbI/AAAAAAAAAZY/8whmxnv2w7E/s1600-h/IMG_2464.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R4VaQt4htbI/AAAAAAAAAZY/8whmxnv2w7E/s320/IMG_2464.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153624591836493234" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-2785576863059611416?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-77331638267722522008-01-02T09:35:00.000-08:002008-01-02T09:45:33.277-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vMwN4htXI/AAAAAAAAAY4/jYvKvnjYjAY/s1600-h/IMG_4622.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vMwN4htXI/AAAAAAAAAY4/jYvKvnjYjAY/s320/IMG_4622.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150935727560832370" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vMpt4htWI/AAAAAAAAAYw/QoHUzl-Vboc/s1600-h/IMG_4602.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vMpt4htWI/AAAAAAAAAYw/QoHUzl-Vboc/s320/IMG_4602.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150935615891682658" border="0" /></a><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="">Baltistan</b></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;"><o:p> </o:p>Opuszczam<span style=""> </span>autostradę Karakorum, przecinającą<span style=""> </span>Himalaje i Karakorum, łączącą Chiny z Pakistanem . Po 6 godzinach jazdy na wschód, krętą drogą, wykutą w zboczach stromych ścian wąskich dolin, dojeżdżam do Baltistanu i oddycham wreszcie<span style=""> </span>bezkresną przestrzenią doliny Skardu. Rozpościera się przede mną krajobraz olbrzymiej półpustyni Naprzeciwko, kilkadziesiąt kilometrów przed nami, srebrzy się, świeżym śniegiem, pasmo górskie oddzielające nas od Deosai Plateau<span style=""> </span>- najwyższego płaskowyżu na świecie! Po środku <span style=""> </span>tej krainy wznosi się olbrzymia, prawie kilkusetmetrowa skała. Droga do centrum Baltistanu wiedzie wśród wydm piaskowych. Piasek wypełnia niemalże całe dno doliny nadając krajobrazowi osobliwe piękno i oryginalność.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;"><br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;">Wróciłem do swojego królestwa malowniczych gór, szerokich dolin a przede wszystkim znowu jestem pośród ludu Balti, mieszkańców tego rejonu o wielkich sercach.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;">Baltistan to region północnego Kaszmiru w górach Karakorum. Jest to sucha, pustynna kraina położona na wysokości ponad 3000 tys. metrów. To tutaj znajduje się druga najwyższa góra na świecie K-2,<span style=""> </span>najwyższy na świecie płaskowyż Deosai, oraz najwyższy poza arktycznym rejonem lodowiec Baltoro. </p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;">Baltistan Graniczy z Chińska prowincją Xinxing, Kaszmirem i Ladakhiem </p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;">Po uzyskaniu niepodległości przez Indie<span style=""> </span>i Pakistan został podzielony przez oba te kraje! Dystrykty<span style=""> </span>Skardu i Ganche, kontrolowane prze Pakistan nadal należą do terytoriów spornych.</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;"><span style=""> </span>Ludność w przeważającej mierze to rolnicy skupieni wzdłuż koryt rzek i gdzie istnieje możliwość nawadniania pól.<span style=""> </span>Mieszkańcy Baltistanu<span style=""> </span>to<span style=""> </span>ludy pochodzenia tybetańskiego, które napływały tutaj w wielu falach z Tybetu. Posługują się językiem balti jednym z odgałęzień <span style=""> </span>języka tybetańskiego . <span style=""> </span>Dodatkowo mieszkają tutaj reprezentanci<span style=""> </span>innych nacji takich jak np. Shina (oryginalnie zamieszkujący dystrykt Gilgit)</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Ludzi ci są niezwykle gościnni, serdeczni. Przypominają bardzo <span style=""> </span>Ludność Ladakhu, położonego na południu,<span style=""> </span>ze wzglądu na swoje cechy charakteru. Są spokojni, skromni, nieśmiali, wrażliwi.<span style=""> </span>Pobyt wśród nich może inspirować i natchnąć wiarą w drugiego człowieka.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Religią ludów balti jest islam, który zajął miejsce buddyzmu w XIII wieku. Jednak nie zmieniło to ich ,,tybetańskiej’’, ,,wysokogórskiej’’ mentalności. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">To dla mnie przyjemność<span style=""> </span>znowu słyszeć ich język.<span style=""> </span>Odpoczywać w spokojnej atmosferze ich codzienności. <span style=""> </span>Po opuszczeniu Karakorum Highway to dla mnie inny świat.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Architektura nie zmieniła się tutaj od wieków. Kamienne domy, w których mieszkają sprawiają wrażenie jakby z ,,innej epoki’’ a wioski na wzór ladakijskich to nieraz istne labirynty.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Samo natomiast Skardu <span style=""> </span>przypomina mi, górskie miasta Tybetu. To przede wszystkim miasto handlowe . <span style=""> </span>Mało tu pozostało z tradycyjnej architektury. Główna ulica to market z ogromem artykułów. Sklepy spożywcze,<span style=""> </span>skromne hotele, restauracje z dobrym lokalnym jedzeniem, kramy z butami, masarnie etc. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">To tradycyjnych, skalnych miast – wiosek <span style=""> </span>należą Shigar (dawna stolica rejonu) oraz Kaphulu. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Wędrując ulicami Shigar, ku swojej uciesze<span style=""> </span>szybko się gubię, wśród tradycyjnej zabudowy. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Odkrywam fascynujące proste życie mieszkańców wioski. <span style=""> </span>Gonią za mną grupy rozkrzyczanych dzieci, które rzadko kiedy widują kogokolwiek obcego.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vNGt4htYI/AAAAAAAAAZA/u8kuv8hn0kg/s1600-h/IMG_4696.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vNGt4htYI/AAAAAAAAAZA/u8kuv8hn0kg/s320/IMG_4696.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150936114107889026" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vNT94htZI/AAAAAAAAAZI/NwGeV5tGnjM/s1600-h/IMG_4706.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vNT94htZI/AAAAAAAAAZI/NwGeV5tGnjM/s320/IMG_4706.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150936341741155730" border="0" /></a>Już w drodze do Skardu spędzam czas na milej rozmowie z jednym z mieszkańców. Pomimo tego, że nasza dialog<span style=""> </span>jest utrudniony <span style=""> </span>jego słabym angielskim komunikacja<span style=""> </span>idzie nam doskonale!<span style=""> </span>Nadrabiamy gestami<span style=""> </span>i uśmiechami! Po przyjeździe zobowiązany, żeby mi pomóc szuka wytrwale dla mnie hotelu! Negocjuje uczciwa cenę i zostawia wśród swoich przyjaciół!</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Wieczorem<span style=""> </span>korzystam z zaproszenia i udaje się z wizyta do przyjaciela Shaha.<span style=""> </span>Shah oprowadza mnie po swoich włościach! Staje oniemiały pośrodku jednego ze starych, olbrzymich fortów architektonicznie podobnych do świątyń i fortów w buddyjskim Ladakhu!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">,,Oto mój dom,,<span style=""> </span>mówi Shah!<span style=""> </span>Zwiedzamy tradycyjne wnętrza, które obecnie służą<span style=""> </span>jako plenery do pakistańskich filmów i letnie mieszkanie dla jego rodziny! Następnie opowiada<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>mi historie swojej rodziny i ojca generała, który odegrał naczelną rolę<span style=""> </span>w walce o Kaszmir!<span style=""> </span>Po smacznym obiedzie udajemy się z wizyta do<span style=""> </span>wuja Shaha najbogatszego człowieka Baltystanu . Właściciela słynnego hotelu<span style=""> </span>Shangri – La<span style=""> </span>(Niebo na ziemi). </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nie<span style=""> </span>wiem czego się mogę spodziewać i kogo oczekiwać!<span style=""> </span>Człowiek, którego spotykam robi <span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>na mnie olbrzymie wrażenie. Imponuje mi swoją<span style=""> </span>skromnością, erudycją, doświadczeniem! Ujmuje mnie kulturą<span style=""> </span>osobistą, ogładą i spokojem. Opowiada o swoich licznych podróżach, studiach w Anglii, swojej zagazowaniu w rozwój gospodarczy i kulturalny regionu. O problemach, i długiej drodze <span style=""> </span>mieszkańców<span style=""> </span>do lepszych<span style=""> </span>standardów życia. Baltistan<span style=""> </span>m.in. potrzebuje unowocześnić szkolnictwo<span style=""> </span>-<span style=""> </span>niezbędne jest podniesienie ogólnego poziomu edukacji,<span style=""> </span>udoskonalić rolnictwo. Brakuje tutaj ludzi wykształconych<span style=""> </span>- specjalistów od wielu dziedzin.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Baltistan ze względu na swoją izolację, położenie na dużej wysokości, długie zimy oraz fakt, że jest terenem spornym pozostał słabo rozwiniętym gospodarczo, słabo poznanym i nadal niewielu odwiedzających tutaj przebywa. <span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;">Żałuje, ze nie mogę pozostać tutaj dłużej ale mam umówione spotkanie z kompanem mojej podroży w Gilgicie!<span style=""> </span>Obiecuje sobie ze wkrótce tu jeszcze i nie ma wątpliwości ze tak się stanie!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vNkd4htaI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/2shmFzUIuGA/s1600-h/IMG_4628.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3vNkd4htaI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/2shmFzUIuGA/s320/IMG_4628.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150936625208997282" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 35.4pt;"><o:p> </o:p></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-7733163826772252?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-85586518513074078092008-01-01T15:33:00.001-08:002008-01-01T15:38:50.309-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rPAt4htVI/AAAAAAAAAYo/uy0-2ZqFyYQ/s1600-h/IMG_0026.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rPAt4htVI/AAAAAAAAAYo/uy0-2ZqFyYQ/s320/IMG_0026.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656735075218770" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rO8d4htUI/AAAAAAAAAYg/QJ8XrCukx5Y/s1600-h/IMG_0052.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rO8d4htUI/AAAAAAAAAYg/QJ8XrCukx5Y/s320/IMG_0052.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656662060774722" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rO3t4htTI/AAAAAAAAAYY/raJ3w8WCwLw/s1600-h/IMG_0053.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rO3t4htTI/AAAAAAAAAYY/raJ3w8WCwLw/s320/IMG_0053.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656580456396082" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOyt4htSI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/i_oppBFAZMI/s1600-h/IMG_0059.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOyt4htSI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/i_oppBFAZMI/s320/IMG_0059.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656494557050146" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOrt4htRI/AAAAAAAAAYI/v8gfO-qjzEc/s1600-h/IMG_0065.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOrt4htRI/AAAAAAAAAYI/v8gfO-qjzEc/s320/IMG_0065.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656374297965842" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOlN4htQI/AAAAAAAAAYA/gy_DLE30oc0/s1600-h/IMG_0084.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOlN4htQI/AAAAAAAAAYA/gy_DLE30oc0/s320/IMG_0084.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656262628816130" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOed4htPI/AAAAAAAAAX4/5bHQFocnJkk/s1600-h/IMG_0087.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOed4htPI/AAAAAAAAAX4/5bHQFocnJkk/s320/IMG_0087.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656146664699122" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOZd4htOI/AAAAAAAAAXw/TIJBv-HOn9E/s1600-h/IMG_0088.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOZd4htOI/AAAAAAAAAXw/TIJBv-HOn9E/s320/IMG_0088.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150656060765353186" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOUN4htNI/AAAAAAAAAXo/lGzKvV5SRP4/s1600-h/IMG_0092.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOUN4htNI/AAAAAAAAAXo/lGzKvV5SRP4/s320/IMG_0092.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150655970571039954" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOO94htMI/AAAAAAAAAXg/VTZXhotTCoM/s1600-h/IMG_0093.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOO94htMI/AAAAAAAAAXg/VTZXhotTCoM/s320/IMG_0093.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150655880376726722" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOKt4htLI/AAAAAAAAAXY/A9ileRNEiZk/s1600-h/IMG_0094.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOKt4htLI/AAAAAAAAAXY/A9ileRNEiZk/s320/IMG_0094.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150655807362282674" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOFt4htKI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/uvvrVwyDNm8/s1600-h/IMG_0097.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rOFt4htKI/AAAAAAAAAXQ/uvvrVwyDNm8/s320/IMG_0097.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150655721462936738" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rN_94htJI/AAAAAAAAAXI/1aT5BSikWiA/s1600-h/IMG_0100.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3rN_94htJI/AAAAAAAAAXI/1aT5BSikWiA/s320/IMG_0100.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150655622678688914" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-8558651851307407809?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-67463036539357666912007-12-28T05:51:00.000-08:002007-12-28T06:02:30.237-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3UAg94htHI/AAAAAAAAAW4/z23S22aoGV8/s1600-h/IMG_4353.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3UAg94htHI/AAAAAAAAAW4/z23S22aoGV8/s320/IMG_4353.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149022315335496818" border="0" /></a><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="">Passu</b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Kolejnym przystankiem na naszej drodze jest Passu! Godzina drogi na północ od Karimabadu, bliżej wielkich tybetańskich płaskowyżów .</p> <p class="MsoNormal">W dolinach pasą się pierwsze jaki oraz krzyżówki jaków i krów , <span style=""> </span>ponoć bardziej ekonomiczne dla hodowli .<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""></span>Wita nas jeden najcudowniejszych górskich widoków! Udajemy się na wycieczkę <span style=""> </span>do wiszącego, ponad dwustu metrowego mostu! <span style=""> </span>Prowadzi nas ubrana w tradycyjny strój stara kobieta Buruszaki.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Wchodzi <span style=""> </span>na Most i za chwile jest już po drogiej stronie. Ja jednak szybko <span style=""> </span>tracę zapal i rezygnuje z jego przekroczenia.<span style=""> </span>Most buja się na wszystkie strony a widok popękanych desek nie dodaje odwagi. Cofam się przestraszony.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3UAot4htII/AAAAAAAAAXA/MS6h44r3mXM/s1600-h/IMG_4372.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3UAot4htII/AAAAAAAAAXA/MS6h44r3mXM/s320/IMG_4372.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149022448479483010" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span>Właściciel malutkiego<span style=""> </span>hoteliku przygotowywuje dla mnie pyszna potrawę z ziemniaków<span style=""> </span>i opowiada historie z dawnych czasów jeszcze przed Karakorum kiedy podróż piesza do Islamabadu zajmowała 20 dni. Opowiada o swojej<span style=""> </span>pierwszej wyprawie do Karimabadu, <span style=""> </span>kiedy miał trzynaście lat! <span style=""> </span>Trzy dni w jedną stronę. I o innym pełnym przepychu i bogactwa świecie który otwierał się jego oczom. O pierwszych turystach z zachodu, którzy wędrowali przez góry!<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>O Mieszkańcach pobliskiej stromej doliny Szimszal , którzy chcąc dojść do Passu musieli ponad dwadzieścia razy przekraczać nurt porywistej<span style=""> </span>rzeki ! </p> <p class="MsoNormal">W swojej wyobraźni przenoszę się do tamtego Karakorum – dzikiego i niedostępnego, gdzie często granice świata wyznaczały przełęcze miedzy dolinami a wyprawa była podróżą do innego rzeczywistości. Wielu mieszkańców nigdy nie opuszczało swojej wioski. <span style=""> </span>Wyobrażam sobie, że jestem tym chłopcem, który widzi <span style=""> </span>pierwszy raz pełną przepychu <span style=""> </span>i<span style=""> </span>przybyszów z różnych <span style=""> </span>stron Karmibabad. Wyobrażam sobie strudzonych pielgrzymów i karawany. <span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Zadaje sobie pytanie czym i gdzie w takim układzie przestrzeni jest Islamabad i cały zewnętrzny <span style=""> </span>świat. Gdzie są granice mojej <span style=""> </span>rzeczywistości ? <span style=""> </span>Pogrążony w <span style=""> </span>zadumie stoję<span style=""> </span>na pobliskim pagórku i obserwuje rozmywające <span style=""> </span>się wysoko nade mną <span style=""> </span>niezdobyte szczyty pasma Passu ! Wyobrażam sobie dolinę po drugiej stronie . Uzmysławiam sobie, że na zawsze będę zwiany z miejscami takie jak to.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Cieszę się, że <span style=""> </span>Karakorum <span style=""> </span>w dużej mierze pozostało takie same <span style=""> </span>jak kiedyś ! Nadal można tu uciec od współczesnej rzeczywistości<span style=""> </span>do świata z ,,praczasów’’.</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-6746303653935766691?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-57694836153692095642007-12-28T05:39:00.000-08:002007-12-28T06:04:14.869-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3T_MN4htGI/AAAAAAAAAWw/OY-G7sXooLc/s1600-h/IMG_4497.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3T_MN4htGI/AAAAAAAAAWw/OY-G7sXooLc/s320/IMG_4497.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149020859341583458" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3T-_N4htFI/AAAAAAAAAWo/zZmmzPHaY_g/s1600-h/IMG_4494.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3T-_N4htFI/AAAAAAAAAWo/zZmmzPHaY_g/s320/IMG_4494.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149020636003284050" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><br /></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="">Hunza i Nagar<o:p></o:p></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Im dalej na północ tym widoki <span style=""> </span>staja się coraz bardziej spektakularne! Ogrom, który wznosi się ponad nami jest nie do opisania.<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Docieramy do Karimabadu stolicy królestwa Hunzy. <span style=""> </span>Spacerujemy u podnóża gigantycznych gór<span style=""> </span>kamiennymi uliczkami miasta. <span style=""> </span>Odwiedzamy zabytkowy fort,<span style=""> </span>inspirowany architektonicznie przez <span style=""> </span>forty buddyjskie z Ladakhu i Baltystanu.<span style=""> </span>Karimabad był niegdyś stolica potężnego królestwa Hunzy. Zamieszkuje go<span style=""> </span>ludność <span style=""> </span>Buruszaski , którego język<span style=""> </span>jest do dziś niesklasyfikowany przez językoznawców!</p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3T91N4htCI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/2U4bmdfPuJM/s1600-h/IMG_4285.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3T91N4htCI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/2U4bmdfPuJM/s320/IMG_4285.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149019364692964386" border="0" /></a><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">Autostrada Karakorum zmieniła diametralnie życie tutejszych mieszkańców !<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Rejony takie jak Hunza<span style=""> </span>uprzywilejowane obecnością tego traktu <span style=""> </span>komunikacyjnego rozwijają się gospodarczo . Inne natomiast takie jak przylegle królestwo nagar podupadły i zostały zapomniane.<span style=""> </span>Jeszcze nie dawno królestwa Nagaru I Hunzy<span style=""> </span>były<span style=""> </span>dwoma<span style=""> </span>wielkimi potęgami w rejonie i była pomiędzy nimi zachowana równowaga sił <span style=""> </span>. Obecnie Nagar pogrąża się w izolacji i ubóstwie! </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Wędrując przez Nagar wywołujemy wielką sensację.<span style=""> </span>Jest ciepły wiosenny poranek! Mieszkańcy po ciężkiej zimie masowo wylegli na ulice i ogrzewają się promieniami słońca!<span style=""> </span>Jesteśmy przez nich głośno witani!<span style=""> </span>Wszyscy maja niezły ubaw! ,,angrezi,, - cudzoziemcy przyjechali do naszej wioski .</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span>Po drodze zatrzymujemy się kilka razy na pogaduchy! <span style=""> </span>Płoszymy lokalne dziewczęta, które zamurowane naszym widokiem przystają ,,zamurowane’’<span style=""> </span>a<span style=""> </span>potem zrywają się do biegu !</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Aż czujemy się nieswojo!<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Na obiad jemy autentyczny rosół co jest<span style=""> </span>nie lada odmianą naszej diety! </p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-5769483615369209564?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-72354110363375506352007-12-28T04:12:00.000-08:002007-12-28T04:17:19.254-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3Toqd4hs-I/AAAAAAAAAVw/o-PfaI7gCXU/s1600-h/IMG_4186.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3Toqd4hs-I/AAAAAAAAAVw/o-PfaI7gCXU/s320/IMG_4186.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148996090265187298" border="0" /></a><br /><p class="MsoNormal">Nasza górska <span style=""> </span>podroż zaczyna się w zielonej dolinie Swat! <span style=""> </span>To teren zamieszkały przez Pasztulów <span style=""> </span>- brodatych wyznawców islamu o wielkich sercach. Zamieszkują <span style=""> </span>oni tereny <span style=""> </span>Afganistanu <span style=""> </span>i <span style=""> </span>Pakistanu. Do Pakistanu<span style=""> </span>migrowali falami przez wiele setek lat .<span style=""> </span>Gdziekolwiek trafiamy spotykamy się z ich wielka życzliwością i troską!<span style=""> </span>Urzeka nas emanujące<span style=""> </span>z ich spojrzeń ciepło.<span style=""> </span>Jesteśmy zapraszani do ich domów. Częstują nas zielona herbatą, jedzeniem. <span style=""> </span>Opowiadają<span style=""> </span>o islamie , który jest religią miłości!<span style=""> </span>To smutne, ze mieszkańcy tego kraju uważani są przez większość świata za terrorystów . <span style=""> </span>ja natomiast zadaje sobie pytanie gdzie na świecie można znaleźć <span style=""> </span>tyle człowieczeństwa co tutaj.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal">W latach sześćdziesiątych <span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>miejsce to było popularne wśród hipisów, których setki spędzało tu długie miesiące oczarowanych przyrodą i ludźmi! <span style=""> </span>Teraz Swat żyje legendą <span style=""> </span>tamtych czasów!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Dolina Swat to niezwykłe miejsce ze względu na klimat i jej mieszkańców!<span style=""> </span>Temperatura w zimę rzadko spada poniżej zera stopni .<span style=""> </span>Natomiast w lato nie przekracza trzydziestu!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Wysłuchujemy wielu opowieści <span style=""> </span>o długowieczności mieszkańców!<span style=""> </span>Stary mężczyzna, który nas gości ma siedemdziesiąt<span style=""> </span>lat <span style=""> </span>a najstarszy z jego ośmiu synów ma dziewięć. Cóż to skłania do refleksji!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TpA94htAI/AAAAAAAAAWA/DiBuL3CwWQY/s1600-h/IMG_4173.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TpA94htAI/AAAAAAAAAWA/DiBuL3CwWQY/s320/IMG_4173.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148996476812243970" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Zostajemy poinformowani, że najstarszy mieszkanie doliny ma<span style=""> </span>sto trzydzieści <span style=""> </span>lat a stulatków jest tu bardzo wielu!<span style=""> </span>Nie wiemy czy to legendy, czy mieszkańcy mają inną rachubę czasu ale wcale nie wydaje się to takie niewiarygodne!</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Udajemy się na wycieczkę pod eskorta policjanta - przewodnika!<span style=""> </span>Rząd Pakistanu intensywnie inwestuje ostatnio w turyzm a dla poczucia bezpieczeństwa w niektórych rejonach gór obowiązkowo turystom musi towarzyszyć ochrona.<span style=""> </span>Nasz <span style=""> </span>młody <span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>przewodnik<span style=""> </span>niesie ze sobą swojego kałasznikowa!<span style=""> </span>Podczas rozmowy opowiada, że jeszcze nigdy go jednak nie używał, gdyż <span style=""> </span>nie było takiej potrzeby!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TpM94htBI/AAAAAAAAAWI/xsTX8Otd18o/s1600-h/IMG_4181.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TpM94htBI/AAAAAAAAAWI/xsTX8Otd18o/s320/IMG_4181.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148996682970674194" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Cudowny dzień kończy się wysłuchaniem<span style=""> </span>śpiewów muezinów, których rolę pełnią trzej mali chłopcy!<span style=""> </span>Stoimy na dachu naszego małego hoteliku , owiani chłodem <span style=""> </span>nocy, pod płaszczem gwieździstego nieba.<span style=""> </span>Mistyczne śpiewy niosą się wśród <span style=""> </span>olbrzymich masywów górskich zatrzymując czas i czyniąc tą chwilę wyjątkową!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7321374696811957609-7235411036337550635?l=whereistomek.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>whereistomekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06064407333182807697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321374696811957609.post-13973703876764459242007-12-28T02:09:00.000-08:002007-12-28T02:15:24.773-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMrN4hs9I/AAAAAAAAAVo/l2RJlOzh-8I/s1600-h/Picture+013.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMrN4hs9I/AAAAAAAAAVo/l2RJlOzh-8I/s320/Picture+013.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148965316824511442" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMmd4hs8I/AAAAAAAAAVg/SLQ-mt9H4l8/s1600-h/Picture+009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMmd4hs8I/AAAAAAAAAVg/SLQ-mt9H4l8/s320/Picture+009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148965235220132802" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMhN4hs7I/AAAAAAAAAVY/twvHN38EgNM/s1600-h/Picture+019.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMhN4hs7I/AAAAAAAAAVY/twvHN38EgNM/s320/Picture+019.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148965145025819570" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vZOvsdUuSIE/R3TMct4hs6I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/dP4Q-w_CzRs/s1600-h/Picture+032.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; 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